About the Knives
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Every knife I make is truly one-of-a-kind; each is unique by virtue of the forging and hammer work, the natural character of the wood grain, how a piece of wood dyes and/or the character of an epoxy fill. I cannot identically copy one of my own knives, however I can make something similar and tailored to you.
The stock steel I use to make knives comes to me in steel bars that I purchase from a US steel supplier. I do not use recycled steel, springs, saw blades or files. By using new steel, I can guarantee the quality and performance of the blades that I make. I do all of the forging, shaping and grinding and I make the Damascus steel. All the knives are heat treated, necessary to make the steel hard and flexible, in my shop with molten salt and microprocessor control to ensure superior performance of the blade.
The blades of my knives are all made of high carbon steel, NOT stainless steel. I chose high carbon steel because it has performed excellently for hundreds of years, it is easy to hone with a kitchen steel or leather strop, and it can be sharpened to a keener edge when the time comes. Maintaining the edge with a steel or strop will reduce the amount of sharpening needed over time and make your life easier in the long run.
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My knives are easy to sharpen by any of the normal means: whetstones, water stones, oil stones, diamond plates or a reputable sharpening service. Kitchen knives have a 19 degree bevel angle, belt knives have a 24 degree bevel angle. High quality kitchen sharpening jigs/machines can be used, however you are at the mercy of the machine's mysterious assemblies and workings. They are difficult to troubleshoot if you are having issues with them. Because of this, I encourage you to learn to use a stone or diamond plate, and I have made a video tutorial on how.
High carbon steel does rust if allowed to remain wet, however caring for high carbon knives is very easy. Use it often, clean it with soap and water after you're done cooking, and dry it immediately after washing. Before you put the knife away for the night, give it a light coat of oil (I use mineral oil, cooking oil is fine). Over time they will develop a dark grey “antique” patina; this is the tattle-tale sign of high carbon steel, it is normal and the patina offers a small amount of rust resistance. I recommend letting the patina develop over time. See my video page for more information.
All my handles start with a block of wood. Some are completely natural in color, some are dyed and some have epoxy fills. All of the wood is stabilized; it has been vacuum impregnated with a stabilizing resin which becomes a solid. This reduces the amount of shrinking/swelling that might occur with changes in temperature and humidity. I do all of the stabilizing, dying, and epoxy work, as well as the handle sculpting and final hand finish work.
The leather sheath that each knife comes with is also made by me.
All my handles start with a block of wood. Some are completely natural in color, some are dyed and some have epoxy fills. All of the wood is stabilized; it has been vacuum impregnated with a stabilizing resin which becomes a solid. This reduces the amount of shrinking/swelling that might occur with changes in temperature and humidity. I do all of the stabilizing, dying, and epoxy work, as well as the handle sculpting and final hand finish work.
The leather sheath that each knife comes with is also made by me.
I make knives that will become family heirlooms. With proper care and consistent, easy maintenance, your knife will likely outlast you, and maybe if we are both lucky, someone will discover it in an archaeological dig someday.